Tokyo Desu: Todoroki Valley
Living in a city of over 9 million people, life can get a little stifling. Whilst the hustle and bustle of Asia was one of it’s major attractions for me, it’s sometimes nice to escape that madness, even if only for a few hours. In the next instalment of the Tokyo Desu series, I’m taking you to Todoroki Valley. Set in Setagaya-ku – one of Tokyo’s most hipster and fashionable cities – Todoroki Valley is a mere 20 minutes from Shibuya in central Tokyo, via the Tokyu-Oimachi Line.
After arriving at Todoroki Station, you’re greeted by this simple but cute platform, where the trains run almost side-by-side to pedestrians and cars on the adjoining roads. The cocktail of crossing klaxons, rolling trains and Sunday tourists adds a layer of liveliness to this sleepy little town and, probably, enough noise to suitably piss off a local pensioner. To reach the valley itself, simply turn left onto the main road at the ticket gates and bear right for a minute or two – depending on how long your legs are – to reach the valley pathway.
Whilst Todoroki’s primary attraction is the valley – which you can see below – it has also cashed in on Japan’s love of a local mascot and created the strapping, young lad, above – TodoROCKY. I kid you not. Whilst Todorocky proved pretty popular with young families and couples, alike, try Googling other, less well-received mascots such as Rerhuni-san – a cross between an 80s porn star and a paedophile – and Melon Kuma (or Melon Bear) – who is nowhere near as friendly-looking as he sounds. I absolutely did not go back to the station to claim my own, free, Todorocky emblazoned folder (as pictured above)…
Todoroki is actually the only valley amongst Tokyo’s 23 cities, however, it’s comparatively peaceful compared to other areas of nature throughout the city. Areas including, but not limited to Mount Takao, which can feel like you’ve been thrown into a massively overpopulated game of Love Island. By descending from the Golf Bridge above, you can begin the approximately 1km trail along the Yazawa River, which leads past shrines, temples, waterfalls and teahouses.
The valley itself is a really lovely spot as you walk along the bank and cross over the multitude of tiny bridges. Whilst I went in the autumn when it’s relatively cool, it has a reputation for being comparatively cooler in the summer months than the streets above. If, like me, humid summers make you glisten like a shiny Pokemon, it may be favourable as a date spot in summer that doesn’t require air conditioning and a surplus of towels.
As you approach the end of the valley, the landscape starts to change as you come across shrines, temples and viewing platforms. The shrine below is called Chigo Daishi Mieido which houses a statue of the Buddhist priest, Kobo Daishi. The man himself is credited with inventing the Japanese Kana – the Japanese writing system – so if, like myself, you’re a fan of a few words or two, this seems like an appropriate shrine to visit. If you’re of the opinion that literature is just an incredibly long and boring version of the TV show/movie, then you’re probably safe to move on up to the temple.
The name – Todoroki – actually derives from the roar or ‘todorita’ of the ringing sound of the Fudo-no-Taki Falls, pictured above, which reverberated around the valley. Whilst today, they look more like urinating dragons, I can only assume that in the past their roar was deafening. Kind of like that ring-dependency noise Bilbo makes in Lord of the Rings when he finally gets an opportunity to see the ring again. Ascetic training also took place here, at least before mobile phones were invented. I can’t say it’s a lifestyle which tempts me much but if I were held at gunpoint and forced to do it, I can’t think of many other places in Tokyo that I rather would.
Although the trees below are turning to autumnal colours, in the spring, this is also a great spot to view cherry blossom around March or April. Set against the backdrop of Todoroki Fudo Temple, it’s worth the short walk up some steps to check it out. If steps aren’t your forte or you’re just after a heavy leg-day in the gym, there’s a teahouse on the right, also, which serves Matcha tea and traditional Japanese sweets to stop and rest at.
Don’t forget to cleanse your hands as you enter the temple. Where’s the Mother of Dragons when you need her? Anybody? No? Oh, alright…
As a town, Todoroki itself is nice for a dander around. It’s sleepy and quiet, only really picking up around the station where the majority of eateries and coffee shops are but they are plentiful. Typical of Japan, many places only seat a handful of customers but if you’re lucky enough that they’re both open and able to accommodate you, definitely check some of them out.
The quiet streets above are only a street or two over from the station, demonstrating one of the things I love most about Japan. Whilst some areas can be an utter cesspit of noise and crowds, you don’t have to travel far to find that little area of tranquillity that is sometimes desperately needed.
Weekenders shuffling in and around Todoroki Station.
If you you’ve been, or know of any good spots in Todoroki, why not share your experience with us in the comments below?
